Borneo/Kalimantan – not only orangutangs

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Vi har varit med om något alldeles speciellt. Återigen träffade vi underbara människor, alla mycket välkomnande, glada och hjälpsamma.

Borneos orangutanger är hotade, och det är tråkigt att se alla palmoljeplantage som tar över djungeln. Men.. det finns fortfarande hopp. Tanjung National Park köper mark som de låter bönderna fortsätta att bruka om de lovar att inte skära ner det till förmån för olje plantage. Vi åkte tillsammans med några vänner från rallyt på en traditionell klotok flodbåt för att besöka orangutangerna.

Att bevittna kroppsspråket och den hierarkiska ordningen bland orangutangerna var intressant. Det blev tydligt vem som var ”över” vem, speciellt när den stora hannen var på bordet. Ingen kom i närheten om inte han lät dem. Han behövde bara höja handen lite så försvann de som inte var välkomna att dela majs, sockerrör och bananer med honom. Inget tjafs eller höjda röster! Vid ett tillfälle fanns det en gibbonapa som i hemlighet stal lite mat också, jättekul att titta på.

En gibbonapa får också vara med!

Möte med fler turister på en flodbåt.

En by mitt i djungeln.

Johan njuter av utsikten från taket.

Vi gjorde två olika nattvandringar och det var kul att uppleva djungeln endast i ljuset av en pannlampa! Vi såg taranteller (spindel), myror stora som en tå, olika spindlar, självlysande svampar och en Tarsier! Denna söta primat är stor som en knytnäve med stora ögon och de har långa klibbiga fingrar så att de kan hoppa och klättra i träden. Helt fantastiskt!

Så här ser en Tarsier ut!

Vi fick även se kungsfiskare, örnar, en uggla, en krokodil och näsapor. Vid en utfodringsstation fanns det flera makaker som lekte runt och försökte komma på båtarna för att stjäla mat. Djungeln är full av liv!

En tarantella!

Näsapor högt upp i träden.

Efter tre dagar / två nätter var vi glada över att komma tillbaka till Rubicon. Ingenting är som hemma! En timme senare var vi på väg till Belitung!

Rene & Pauline (The Bounty), Bronwyn & Pat (Stella Australis) och vi!


What we experienced on this Island is something truly special. Again we met wonderful people, all very welcoming, happy and helpful. Borneos orangutangs are endangered, and it’s sad to see all the palm oil plantation that take over the jungle. Still, there is hope. Tanjung National Park is buying land and they let the farmers keep farming there land, if they promise not to cut it down in advantage for palmoil.

We went together with two other rallyboats on a river tour with a traditional klotok riverboat to see the orangutangs. It was great fun to watch the bodylanguage of the orangutangs during feeding time. They get fed once a day with sugercane, corn and bananas. As long as the big male was on the table (no tablemanners what so ever) you could see how the other orangutangs had 100% focus on him and tried to steal some food. Sometimes he let them and sometimes he just raised his hand and off they went, without any food. At one occasion there was a gibbon monkey that secretly stole some food aswell, great fun to watch.

We did two different night hikes and it was intresting to experience the jungle only with a headlamp! At night we saw a lot of different things suchs as tarantellas, ants big as a toe, different spiders, glowing mushroms and the small Tarsier! This cute primate is a little bigger than a fist and with big eyes, they have long sticky fingers so they can jump and climb up the trees. Absolutley amazing!

As the river passes by we managed to see Kingfishers, eagles, tucans, an owl, a crocodile and probiscous monkeys (a monkey with a big nose). At one feeding station there were several makake monkeys playing around and trying to get on the boats to steal some food. The jungle is full of life!

After three days/two nights we were happy to come back to Rubicon. Nothing is like home! An hour later we were off to Belitung!


Mask festival in Borneo

We were invited to the Babukung Festival (Maskfestival) and at the same time we got the opportunity to live and visit the Dayak people (natives of Borneo) far in the jungle!

The Babukung Festival is an intresting event with many different masks, were all masks have a specific purpose or meaning, picturing birds, dragons, crocodiles, bats, hornbills, peacocks, dogs, devils, butterflies and the white face mask called sadap, which represents a Dutchman with a long nose.

We where the only foreigners there and we were treated like royalties! Everyone wanted photos of us, even the chief of the regency shaked our hands and wanted us to follow him along the festival area (this was a great honour for us, but of course we didn’t realise that until later).

After this fabulous experience and photo-orgie we got in to the car and drove far into the jungle to a Dayak village. Here we were greated by the chief (a 40 year old woman) and the eldest, with various ceremonies and dances. We where dressed up with special clothes and given rice-wine to drink, and after that we danced together to traditional music. We got a beautiful welcoming and they were all very keen on showing us their culture and ceremonies. The next morning at 0430 we went up a steep hill to see the sunrise. Absolutely stunning!

If you want to do this trip call Harri on WhatsApp: +62 812-5086-105

Drinking ricewine from a buffalo horn

Traditional costume and dance welcoming ceremony

Rice storage

Cute school children

Traditional longhouse

The jungle is steaming

Baby gibbon monkey

Swallows nest

These houses are for swallows! Here in Kalimantan (Borneo) they make BIG money on collecting birds nest. When we look over town from our anchorage all we see is these high buildings for the birds, they even use speakers to attract as many birds as possible. It’s the chinese people that pay a lot to have a swallows nest soup! We were told that they pay around 700 US dollars (7oooSEK) at a restaurant in china. The swallows’s housing is better than the people’s!

Who took all the money?

Rice field workers.

Peanut man.

After Bali we went to the rally stop at Bawean. This Island is perfectly situated in between Bali and, now called, Kalimantan (Borneo). It was a beautiful island and the anchorage could easily accomodate 60 boats with excellent holding. The organization was another ballgame. We have now been used to disorganisation and sudden changing of plans here in Indonesia. They all seems to live hour by hour rather than day by day or week by week. Planning is surely not there strongest side! Okey, a lot was cancelled due to money problems (I was told), but they surely knew how to give a proper ”gala-dinner”! This was a great party with live band, solo singer, fashion show, Miss Indonesia and on the menue was seafood with barbequed shrimps, fish and lobster. We had a great time in Bawean! Now we know where the money went!

Miss Indonesia.

We got a lobster!

Traditional fishingboat.

”The yacht club”

Wonderful Bali

We left Rubicon at Marina Del Ray, Gili Gede, Lombok, and took the fast ferry over the channel to spend 4 days in Ubud, Bali. Here is a lot to explore and see, we started with a tour downhill on bicycles. I haven’t seen the movie but someone told me that Julia Roberts did that in EatPrayLove. Anyway, it was great fun and the stunning views were incredible. We bicycled over rice paddies, saw temples and even visited a ”compound”. It’s a private area were all family members live in different houses. Every compound has it’s own temple!

We even tasted the Luwak coffee! The Luwak eat the coffebeans then the coffebean gets processed in his stomach. We collect the poo wash it and let it dry in the sun … Voila, here you have very exclusive coffee (have you seen the movie The Bucketlist?)

One night we went for a culture dance called Kecak Fire Dance. It started with app 30 men making music/noise while clapping and humming and then these two beautiful girls came and danced with there eyes and fingers.

Click on the link below if you want a flavour of the show

Of course we went to the rice paddies. The colours were just stunning!

Tirtha Empul temple (Holy Spring Water temple) is famous for its holy water where Hindu Bali people go for purification. The water that comes out from the shower is believed to eliminate all kind of diseases including adverse effect in the human life and give the new holy spirits.

We visited temples and waterfalls and went for a walk around Monkey Forest.

Relaxed atmosphere at Gili Air, Lombok

We sailed/motored to Lombok and here we anchored just off the Island Gili Air. A supernice island with a lot of backpackers, restaurants and diveshops. Despite all tourists it has a relaxed and slow pace atmosphere. No cars, the taxi service is by horse and carriage or you have to rent a bicycle. Outside the Island there is a lot of good spots for diving. We went by boat together with some other rally-participants, over the channel where there are supposed to be seahorses?! We didn’t have a guide with us so we totally missed them, but had a really good dive anyway!

Bali vulcano only becomes visible at sunset!

Rise and shine

Early in the morning, 03.00, we get picked up. It’s pitch black and we haven’t had that much sleep. But… we are really excited about the days tour! The small narrow very noisy fishingboat takes 30 people out to sea, straight to the spiderboats, where the whalesharks are supposed to be. A spiderboat is a kind of fishingboat that with its lights attracts squids. When they take the nets up there is always some fish and stuff in the surrounding water, that makes very easy feeding for the whalesharks, they don’t have to hunt for themselves!